Over the bathroom sink, get the watch wet with tapwater. Take 1/2 of a scrubbling bubble wipe the bracelet and clasp and the side of the watch case. Be careful not to get any Scrubbing Bubble soap around the seals. I allow the soap to sit for a minute or two. Once the soap has settled in, I rinse with tap water and dry with a Googalie cloth.

This is a quick and easy way to keep your watch clean without worrying about soap seeping into the watch seals.

Update April 2010

After learning about Veraet Watch Spray, this is hand-down the best cleaner. It is sold in the National Association of Watch and Clock Collector's museum store, as well as been advertised on Antiquorum's Timezone.com.

Veraet's President, Don Rothrauff, explained to me that the watch spray is safe because it is water-based, contains no abrasives, no glycerin (the gunk that causes film buildup), no ammonia or acid that causes rubber seals to deterioriate. Veraet also produces a series of cloths that are either sold separately, or bundled with the Watch Spray product.

Read a review of Watch Spray here.

Veraet distributes microsuede cloths that are used for wiping down the watch after cleaning with Watch Spray, microsilk cloths for cleaning gunk off without Watch Spray, and a larger and thicker microsilk cloth used for cleaning gold. Don explained that collectors prefer having cleaning cloths of different types and thicknesses.

Before using the Veraet cloths, I used a Googalie cloth that worked well, but did not soak up water like the blue suede cloth does. The blue cloth is perhaps my favorite. The black microsilk cloth I keep around to wipe down my watches after daily use.

Bracelet Removal

About once or twice a year, the bracelet requires removal for cleaning and light refinishing. The tools required are a Bergeon springbar tool, a roll of masking or electrical tape, and an optional case pad.

According to Rolex wearer, structural engineer, and fellow cyclist, Colnago, on the Rolex Forums, Rolex bracelets do not stretch, but rather "elongate from wear caused when grit/grime/dust etc get in between the links of the bracelet... as the bracelet flexes during normal wear the grit/grime/dust act as cutting compounds and wear the pins and the links themselves resulting in a looser fit." For a long lasting bracelet, it is worth cleaning removing and cleaning the bracelet in an ultrasonic cleaner at least once a year.

The Bergeon Springbar tool 6111 has a small fork on one end for sliding the springbar inward to release it from the case. The small and sharper the tool, the better. Do not use an inexpensive springbar tool as the fork on them tend to be too dull or too large.

This is also a great tool if you have traditional Rolex pierced lugs. Pierced lugs were on most Rolex watch cases up until the late 90's and early 2000's whereby the springbar holes visable and accessible on the outside of the case.

Prior to using the springbar tool to release the bracelet from the case, separate the bracelet from the clasp using a small pin such that the bracelet can lay flat on the workbench.

After separating the bracelet from the clasp, mask off the lug with masking tape. Line up the straight edge of the tape with the edge of the lug. The masking tape or electrical tape will help prevent tell-tale springbar scratches. Others have reported that electrical tape works better than masking tape.

Be careful while sliding the springbar shoulder inward. After releasing the springbar from the case, repeat the same procedure on the other springbar.

There is definately a trick to releasing the springbar from both sides. Sometimes, while sliding the springbar on one side of the case, the other side slips back in. Slight downward pressure on the springbar while sliding it out will help prevent what I call the "see-saw" effect.

Before using the tool, be sure to adjust the set screws such that the tongs are just wider than the solid end link. Doing so will prevent the tongs from scratching the case in the event that the tongs slip from the springbar shoulders.

[ This image was taken after the bracelet was removed. Nonetheless, adjust the set screw while the band is installed on the watch head.]

Turn the watch over, and insert the tool around the narrow part of the clasp hinge. Trying the other side first is cumbersome as the tool has to navigate around the wider part of the clasp hinge.

Squeeze both sides equally insuring that the springbar is fully compressed together. Once compressed, back the watch head away from the solid end link (SEL). Keep the end link stationary while sliding the watch head away from the band.

To reinstall, squeeze both sides equally insuring that the springbar is fully compressed, and keep the solid end link stationary on the work surface.

Carefully back the watch head into the solid end link.

Reinstalling the bracelets is the same procedure, but in reverse. The reinstallation process is much easier using the Bergeon 6825.

With the bracelet removed, be sure to inspect the springbars. These sprinbars held a jubilee bracelet. The watchmaker who supplied this photo indicated that worn springbars like these are quite common. Be sure to replace your Rolex springbars with Rolex springbars from an Rolex Service Center (RSC) or from an Authorized Dealer (AD). Sprinbars can also be found on eBay, but make sure that they are genuine (ask to see the Rolex packing envelope.)

A schematic of bezel inserts, bezel part numbers, and springbar part numbers is posted here (right click and save the .pdf to your desktop).

Bracelet Scratch Maintenance

For the periodic scratches, I use three types of satin bars. I use the Bergeon 5444 fine (top left), the Bergeon 5444 medium (top right), and a very fine satin bar (bottom) purchased from a knife shop. Although others have used brillo pads and scotchbrite pads, I like to use these bars as they give me greater control on the grain direction, as well as the type of finish.

For all brushed bracelets, I start with a medium satin bar, then finish with the fine satin bar. The 116710 (GMT-C), has a finer satin finish. Subsequently, I use first the medium bar, then finish up with the fine satin bar.

First use the medium satin bar and pull the bar in one continuous direction.

Once completed with the medium satin bar, repeat the procedure with the fine grit satin bar.

The idea with a satin bar is to restore the satin grain in the same direction, not just simple scratching of the steel. Rolex satin finishes all go in the same direction and the grain runs consistently from one link to the other link, similar to wood grain running down a plank.

A tell-tale sign of a bad refinish job is that the satin grain goes sideways and is not parallel with the edge of the link.

In this image, I am holding the satin block while moving the link. It is better to remove the bracelet flat and lay it flat as in the images above.

To prevent scratches on the mirrored center, I tape the center section. I also use masking tape or electrical tape as a guide. Slide the bar in one consistent motion with even pressure.

I recently learned that by fully removing the bracelet, covering the center links with electrical tape, and running the entire block over both the tape and links over the entire bracelet in one stroke give a much better finish. It is worth fully removing the bracelet and the clasp, lying the bracelet flat on the bench, then using the sanding bar over the entire (covered) center link and bracelet on once full stroke.

Tape off the brushed portions of the links and wipe the cloth gently over the mirrored sections. This procedure can also be done with the case, but be sure to tape off the brushed lugs.

The cloths smell like vanilla, but the chemicals in them do remove metal. The cloth will get slowly black with use. As the cloth dries, you have add a drop of water to reconstitute it.

The chemical does stick to the watch. After polishing, rinse off the chemical using warm water or a Scrubbling Bubbles wipe (mentioned above) to remove the gunk, rinse and dry with a Googalie cloth.

Dealing with case scratches

For deeper scratches than what a Cape Cod cloth can rub out, I use a cloths from WatchBrandNew. These cloths come in various grades, starting from a rough as a fine satin bar, to the feeling of very fine paper. Each of these cloths is measured in microns of abrasiveness.

The yellow scratch pen pictured I rarely use, but I have found is good for restoring the brush finish on the underside of the lugs after bothing a bracelet removal or re-installation.

The WatchBrandNew cloths are good for stainless watch cases and the polished sides of a GMT or Sea Dweller band. The idea is to start with a coarse grade, then work towards a finer grade cloth. The directions indicate rubbing the cloths by hand, but I use two buff-sticks. One skinny buff stick that is leather lined. and larger, softer buff-stick. Using buff sticks is much easier on the fingers.

Wrap the cloth around the buff stick and rub in on the watch case in one direction.

I typically stick to using the one or two micron cloth. Although these cloths are sold as a set, I have purchased one and two micron cloths separately.

It is much easier to complete this task with the band removed. Use a circular motion using 1 micron paper.

WatchBrandNew cloths will not return the case to a factory finish, but it is close. On a Rolex 904L case, there are still some swirls when finished, but the finish is better than before. The only thing that will get a factory finish is a high speed buffing wheel using the correct buffing compounds, and a skilled hand.

Check the bracelet screws

Scan used with permission

My favorite tool for removing oyster bracelet screws is the screw driver provided in the SeaDweller tool kits. These tool kits can be found on eBay.

Inside the screwdriver is a spare oyster link screw.

The screwdriver is the only tool that I have found that fits the oyster screws exactly.

Standard Bergeon 1.6mm (160) screwdrivers accommodates the screw width, but has a chiseled point at the end. The notable difference with the SD screwdriver is that it is not chiseled, but rather is flattened at the end which makes it sit flush to the bottom of the screw. Subsequently, there is no slop which is important when torque is required to loosen the screw.

Be careful when AD counter help offer to remove a link, they very well might use the wrong tool.

The intent for using LocTite is to insure the screw threads do not become loose during normal wear. The trick to using LocTite is to only get the liquid on the threads, and not the screw shaft. Just use a little LocTite as you do not want any liquid to get into the link hole when the screw is reinstalled. LocTite in the link hole will make the link become stiff.

[Note: This is LocTite 222 that is in a red bottle, with blue/purple fluid. The image does not capture the blue-ish fluid]

... and a drop of LocTite into the threads on the link. This way, there is less of a chance of getting LocTite inside the link hole.

Reinstall the oyster screws only to the point to when the screw stops. There is no need to torque down on the screw.

Although each of these procedures will not bring back the Rolex factory or service center finish, they do help make the watch look like it is not worn by a careless Neanderthal. Each of these procedures I have learned by reading the watch boards and none of them are too invasive and can be repaired by an RSC. There is some security in knowing that some day-to-day scratches can be easily repaired with a little skill and the correct tools.